There are many kinds of silk, but you can feel when it's real. The cool weight of the silk, the way light slides across the lustrous surface, and even the sound of it as it sways your way: these qualities are reserved for 100% real silk. But even with 100% real silk, there are many variations and distinctions in how the fabric comes to life. You may turn over the care label and see dry clean only on one silk robe but machine-washable on another. At KIM+ONO, we offer both.
If both options feel this beautiful in the hand, what really separates Mulberry Silk from Washable Silk? The answer might surprise you. Understanding the differences can change how you care for whatever beautiful piece of silk luxury you bring home. So in today's journal, we're breaking it down.
Mulberry Silk and Washable Silk Are Not Two Different Types of Silk
When it comes to Washable Silk or Printed Silk, the first thing to understand is they are both made from Mulberry Silk. They are the same silk described from two different angles. The names "Washable" or "Printed" tell you how it was woven and treated, but they don't necessarily tell you about the silk itself.
Mulberry Silk is the origin story. It comes from the cocoons of the Bombyx mori silkworm, whose preferred food is the leaves of the white mulberry tree. That diet produces a long and uniform filament, and the highest tier of that fiber is graded 6A. We use 100% Grade 6A Raw Mulberry Silk across our silk collections, including both our dry-clean pieces and our machine-washable ones. The base fiber is identical.
Washable Silk describes the finish, not the fiber. It's Mulberry Silk that has been given a post-weaving treatment so it can survive a gentle wash at home. Nothing about the raw material has been swapped out or diluted.
Our Washable Silk Collection starts from the same 6A fiber as our Printed Silk Collection, which is left untreated and dry-cleaned in the traditional way. Same silkworm, same grade, same luxurious foundation. The only difference is the finishing process.
Grade 6A is the most important part of each silk story. The silk grading scale runs from 2A at the lower end to 6A at the top, and the grade reflects filament length, uniformity, and the absence of breakage or impurities.
A 6A filament is long and consistent enough that it catches and reflects light evenly along its entire length, which is the root cause of silk's characteristic luster. When we say our Washable Silk starts from Grade 6A fiber, we are saying the luxury is designed in at the source, before the finishing process even begins.
How Silk Becomes Washable (The Treatment Process)
So what happens after the fabric comes off the loom? Textile expert Frej Lewenhaupt describes washable silk as fabric that is "specially designed to withstand the washing machine," made "using a special construction technique so it can better handle the harsh movements of the washing machine" [1].
In practice, this means protective finishing treatments applied to the woven cloth: coatings that shield the fiber from mechanical stress and water swelling, along with color-fixing processes that help the dyes hold fast through repeated washing. Some treatments use a polyurethane-type coating specifically to protect the color of the silk [1].
There's a reason this engineering is so valuable, and it comes down to chemistry. Silk is a protein fiber, close cousin to wool and cashmere, and protein fibers are sensitive to alkaline detergents.
Most powdered laundry detergents are alkaline, and those alkalis weaken the silk filament, causing it to soften, lose its shine, and release stray fibers. Untreated silk has no defense against a standard wash cycle. The finishing treatment gives Washable Silk that defense.
We think of this as an engineering of the fabric itself, to create a durability you don't expect of silk with the luxurious softness you do. Our Washable Silk is tested to hold up to over 20 hours of continuous wash, which is what lets us offer it as a signature travel piece you can wear and launder again without a second thought. The treatment protects the silk. It does not alter it.
It also does not change the fiber content on the label. Our Washable Silk is 100% silk, not a blend. Some brands mix Mulberry Silk with polyester or polyamide to lower costs and improve durability.
That approach changes the feel and the fiber breakdown. When you buy from our Washable Silk Collection, you are getting the same premium 6A fiber, finished with an extra layer of protection.
The Real Differences: Luster and Feel and Care
Once you accept that the fiber is the same, the nuanced differences come into focus. They are real, they are small, and they help you decide which finish is right for you. The clearest way to see these differences is side by side.
| Feature | Untreated Mulberry Silk | Washable Silk |
|---|---|---|
| Base fiber | 100% Grade 6A Raw Mulberry Silk | 100% Grade 6A Raw Mulberry Silk |
| Luster | Highest, most reflective sheen | Shimmer instead of sheen |
| Feel | Signature cool, fluid drape | Same signature, fluid drape |
| Care method | Dry clean only, steam between | Machine delicate, cold water, air dry |
| Best for | Special occasions and collectors who love the care ritual | Daily wear and travel with at-home care freedom |
| KIM+ONO collection | Printed Silk | Washable Silk |
Washing can vary how silk catches the light, but giving it a light steam after drying helps to restore the original luster and shine.
There's also a subtle tactile quality that experienced silk wearers may notice. Untreated Mulberry Silk has what textile professionals call a "scroop": a soft, dry rustle when the fabric moves against itself, produced by the untreated sericin layer on the fiber surface. The finishing treatments in Washable Silk can reduce this quality.
The hand feel of both is unmistakably silk, but the untreated version has a slightly crisper whisper when you move in it. Washable Silk drapes with a touch more softness. Neither is more or less valuable. They are two expressions of the same material.
Care is the difference you live with day to day. Untreated Mulberry Silk requires dry cleaning. That care is part of the pleasure of owning something precious, a ritual that focuses on taking good care of the things you love. Washable Silk requires a delicate cycle and a place to hang dry. Both can feel like you're ritualistically adding beauty and care into your everyday. They are simply two different relationships with the same beautiful fiber.
Why Wet Silk Needs Gentle Handling (The Science in Plain Terms)
Here is the detail almost no one explains and will improve your kimono robe's longevity. Wet silk is only 80% as strong as dry silk, so its fibers can break more easily and stretch out of shape when they are handled roughly [2]. Water temporarily loosens the protein structure that gives silk its strength. This is true of all silk, treated or not.
That single fact explains why the treated fabric still calls for a gentle cycle, cold water, and air drying even with its protective finish. The treatment gives the fabric a shield against the mechanical stress of a wash, but it does not rewrite the nature of the fiber underneath.
Silk is still a protein, still sensitive to alkaline detergents, and still at its most vulnerable once wet. Understanding this makes the care feel less like a list of rules and more like common sense.
The same principle applies to how you handle either type of silk while it's wet. Wringing or twisting a damp silk robe can permanently distort the weave and break filaments that would have been perfectly intact if the robe had been laid flat or hung to drip dry.
Agitation is the enemy, which is why both a gentle machine cycle and careful hand washing come down to minimal movement and minimal pressure. A delicates bag will also greatly help in reducing agitation in the machine.
Heat tells a parallel story. The protein structure that gives silk its strength and drape will begin to denature at high temperatures, and once that happens the damage is permanent.
Tumble drying both types of silk falls into the same category as high-heat ironing: a single session can dull the luster in ways that no amount of steaming will undo. This is why we always say steam, never iron, and air dry rather than machine dry, across every silk collection we offer.
Which Silk Is Right for You?
There's no universal answer here. The best silk for you is the silk that fits in with how you live. Think of it as choosing the right relationship with silk rather than ranking one collection above another.
The Washable Silk Collection is the answer for daily life. It suits travel, busy mornings, pregnancy and nursing, and anyone who wants the freedom to care for their silk at home. It's the collection we opt for when we want silk we can wear as often as we please. If you want the luxury of silk without a standing appointment at the dry cleaner, this is your collection.
Our Printed Silk Collection is untreated Mulberry Silk in its purest form, with the highest, most reflective luster we offer. It rewards those who love the ritual of care and reach for silk on meaningful occasions.
Our Handpainted Silk Heritage Collection sits alongside it as a closed, limited collection, no longer in production, treasured as a scarce, collectible work of art. Both are dry clean only, and both are heirloom-quality in the truest sense.
For those who want the easiest possible care above all else, our Charmeuse Collection offers a silk-alternative woven in a lustrous charmeuse weave. It launders gently at home and lands at an entry-level price, a lovely first piece that still feels special on the skin. Every one of these is a beautiful choice. They simply serve different moments.
The most common question we hear is some version of: I love silk, but will I actually take care of it? If that question makes you hesitate, the Washable Silk Collection removes the hesitation. It was designed for the version of luxury that travels, gets worn every morning, and goes through the same gentle laundry routine as your other favorite things.
If you have the opposite feeling, that the dry cleaning trip and the steaming ritual are pleasures you look forward to, the Printed Silk Collection rewards that attention with the highest possible luster we can offer.
How to Care for Each Type
Care is where the collections truly diverge, so it helps to keep the instructions straight by type. The rules below apply to every KIM+ONO robe: never tumble dry, never iron, and always steam to release wrinkles and restore luster.
For a full walkthrough, our guides on how to wash your silk kimono robe and caring for your handpainted and printed silk kimono robes go deeper.
| Collection | How to clean | Drying | Finishing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washable Silk | Machine delicate cycle, cold water, mild detergent (no softeners or bleach), delicates bag | Hang to air dry | Steam to restore luster |
| Printed Silk | Dry clean only | Never wet | Steam between cleanings |
| Handpainted Silk Heritage | Dry clean only | Never wet | Steam between cleanings |
| Charmeuse | Machine delicate cycle, cold water, delicates bag | Hang to air dry | Steam |
A few notes make all the difference. Skip powdered detergents entirely, since their alkalinity is exactly what weakens silk. Steaming, not ironing, is the safest way to remove wrinkles from any silk, because it relaxes the fibers without pressing high heat directly into them. And air drying is not a suggestion but a requirement: the heat of a tumble dryer denatures the protein structure and can permanently dull the luster. Hang your robe on a padded hanger and let it come back to life on its own.
Storage makes a difference nearly as much as washing. Both Washable Silk and Printed Silk benefit from hanging rather than folding, and a padded or fabric-covered hanger prevents the shoulder seam from stretching.
If you need to store a silk robe for a longer period, a breathable garment bag keeps dust off without trapping moisture, which is the more damaging of the two. Keep silk away from direct sunlight during storage: prolonged UV exposure can yellow the fiber and fade even the most colorfast dyes over time.
What to Look for When Buying Washable Silk
Not all washable silk is the same, and the category has expanded quickly enough that it's worth knowing what to look for when you are comparing options.
1. Check the fiber content label. It should read 100% silk. If you see 80% silk / 20% polyamide or a similar ratio, the product is a blend. Blends can be washable, but they are not pure silk and will not feel or behave the same way. Our Washable Silk Collection uses 100% pure Mulberry Silk at the highest 6A grade, with no blending.
2. Ask about the silk grade. Grade 6A is the top tier. Many brands use lower-grade silk in their washable lines because the grade is less visible to consumers than fiber content. Lower-grade filaments are shorter and more prone to breakage, which appears over time as pilling, shedding, and a flat appearance. Asking about the grade before buying is a reasonable step.
3. Look for care testing. Reputable washable silk should have been tested for washability before being sold as machine-safe. Our Washable Silk has been tested to hold up to over 20 hours of continuous wash. A brand that cannot speak to its testing methodology may not have done any formal testing at all.
4. Consider the price relative to quality. True washable silk made from premium-grade fiber and properly finished is not cheap to produce. Prices that seem far below market rate often reflect either a lower fiber grade, a blend, or a thinner fabric weight. Our Washable Silk Collection is priced between $278 and $350, which reflects the material quality and the craftsmanship behind each piece.
5. Read the care instructions carefully. Even real washable silk should call for a delicate cycle, cold water, and air drying. If a product claims you can machine wash silk on a hot cycle or tumble dry it, that is a red flag worth investigating.
Frequently Asked Questions About Mulberry Silk and Washable Silk
Is washable silk as good as regular Mulberry Silk?
Washable Silk and untreated Mulberry Silk start from the same premium 6A silk fiber. Washable Silk adds a finishing treatment for at-home care, while the untreated version keeps the highest possible luster and is dry-cleaned. Both are real, luxurious silk. The right one for you depends on how you want to wear and care for it.
Does washable silk lose its luster over time?
Washing varies how any silk catches the light, and the finishing treatment gives Washable Silk a shimmer where untreated silk has a sheen. The good news is that steaming restores that glow, which is why we recommend a steam after washing rather than an iron. With gentle care, Washable Silk keeps its soft luster wear after wear. The key is avoiding the things that accelerate degradation: high heat, alkaline detergents, and rough mechanical agitation. Keep those three out of your routine and the robe will feel like a living heirloom for a long time to come.
Can I tumble dry washable silk?
No. Even treated silk should never go in a tumble dryer. The heat denatures silk's protein structure, which can cause shrinking and a permanent loss of shine. Always hang your Washable Silk to air dry, then steam it to bring back its luster.
What grade of Mulberry Silk does KIM+ONO use?
We use 100% Grade 6A Raw Mulberry Silk, the highest quality tier, across our silk collections. This is the same premium fiber in both our Washable Silk and our dry-clean Printed Silk, so the luxury of the base material never changes between them.
What is the difference between washable silk and silk blends?
Our Washable Silk line is 100% silk with a finishing treatment, not a blend. Some brands mix silk with polyester or polyamide to lower cost, which changes the feel and the fiber content. When you read a care label, look for the full fiber breakdown so you know exactly what you are getting. A fabric that is 70% silk and 30% polyester will feel different on the skin and behave differently in the wash: the blend can be more adaptable to heat but loses the characteristic drape and temperature regulation that pure silk provides.
Is Washable Silk good for travel?
Yes. Washable Silk is our signature travel piece precisely because it solves the problem that kept silk out of suitcases for so long. You can wear it on the plane, hang it in the hotel bathroom to release any wrinkles from packing, wash it in a hotel sink or on the delicate cycle, and let it air dry so it's ready by morning. The Grade 6A fiber means you are not sacrificing quality for the convenience. It's the same luxurious base as our dry-clean collections, made practical for the way you actually travel.
We make the same silk beautiful in two different ways: one finished for the freedom of everyday wear, the other left pure for the ritual of special care. Whichever you choose, you are choosing real Mulberry Silk, made to be worn and loved for years. If you are still deciding, start with the pieces that fit your life today and let the rest of your collection grow from there.
References
[1] TODAY Shop editorial team. "What is washable silk? Tips and products to care for it, per experts." TODAY (NBC News), 2023. https://www.today.com/shop/washable-silk-care-tips-rcna94933
[2] Sartor Bohemia editorial team. "How to Wash Silk." Sartor Bohemia, 2024. https://www.sartorbohemia.com/article/14/how-to-wash-silk/
